Inspiration does exist in Dallas

Sometimes the Culinary Landscape of a city can be one that is defined by the legacy that the city and the region itself was founded upon. I'm not knocking that, in fact, I generally embrace it. I am and will always undoubtedly be a Texan. That being said, it sometimes doesn't do much to inspire the fledgling aspirations of the locals who have decided to give the food business a go...and by locals I mean me! It also can have a negative effect on perpetuating some of the preconceived notions that the rest of the country and world has for your region. Dallas and Texas as a whole are more than Cowboys, Steak, J.R. Ewing, and belt buckles the size of hubcaps. The city is modern and the cuisine can, at times, be very good.
Ciudad off of Oak Lawn is a great restaurant. Originality is the strength of this place. You'll definitely find it in the food, which if it had to be categorized would fall into that of Interior Mexican cuisine. I don't know that I would agree with that though. It's much more. There is more technique and certainly more combinations of textures, flavor profiles, and influences than in some of the other places around town that make the mistake of categorizing their food. In my opinion categorizing one's food isolates it from the audiences that just want to enjoy something honest and from the heart. Bill Buford in his fantastic book "Heat" described Mario Batali pointing out that a lot of cooks and restaurants that employ them, cook food like "they have never been properly fucked in their life." The food and atmosphere at Ciudad embody the anticipation, the process, and contentment of food as sex. The margaritas aren't bad either.
Let me tell you about the short rib. I'm sure that everyone has had a short rib, maybe even some good ones, but the one here is top-notch. It is braised to the point where if a bite is held in your mouth, without chewing, it will literally melt away leaving just the obvious layers of flavor that tell the eater about the process that it took to get it to that point. It's spicy, yet sweet, savory, yet smooth on the finish. It was served on a fluffy smooth bed of poblano mashed papas and given a generous ladle of some fantastic chipotle mole sauce. It also included a little grilled corn for good measure and a different texture profile. It was pure mastery of the braising technique and it warmed my heart and innards to see the flavors that were combined here. The presentations was nice and tight also. The shorty was expertly trussed so that the lone rib bones protruded from the top center....even though when I tore into it, it began to resemble a sheperd's pie. I would recommend it to anyone...except those boring nitwits who eat like five year olds.
Do yourself a favor. When in the Big-D next time get over to Ciudad and see what their doing. It just might inspire you...or least make you a little randy.
Ciao for now. KP
The Candid Kitchen

